MG Hotels
Mudam, Luxembourg.

The Grand Duke Jean museum of modern art, designed by I. M. Pei, on the Kirchberg plateau — a wing of glass set on the old stones of Fort Thüngen.

On the Kirchberg plateau, across the red bridge from the old town, the Musée d'Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean — Mudam — is the country's museum of contemporary art. I. M. Pei, the architect of the Louvre pyramid, set it on the old stones of Fort Thüngen, letting the 18th-century ramparts run straight into a building of glass and pale limestone. It opened in 2006.

The collection holds more than two hundred works; the exhibitions change through the year; and the glass-roofed winter garden that serves as the café is, on its own, one of the finest rooms in the city. Around it, the Dräi Eechelen park and its “three acorns” towers make the visit as much a walk as a museum.

A suite at Guillaume Suites, above the Giallo restaurant.
Guillaume Suites, whose ground floor is home to Giallo.

We keep our own conversation between art and the table. At Giallo, our Italian restaurant on the ground floor of Guillaume Suites, the seasonal menu is composed like an exhibition — Alba white truffle in autumn, olive oil pressed on the house estate in Tuscany — and during Luxembourg Art Week the room becomes one of the fair's addresses. A morning at Mudam and a long lunch at Giallo are the same idea, told twice.